FENWICKSFenwicks All Conditions Chain Lube: 100ml & Disc Brake Cleaner Aerosol - Green, 200 mlFenwicks

Product Information

You might also want to get a bike cover if your bike will be open to the elements whilst at work, school or elsewhere. A cover will protect your bike’s surface from wear and tear, helping to keep it in the best condition possible. If you prefer to keep your bike in pristine condition and are happy regularly cleaning and servicing your bike, a dry lube might be the right choice. Because it doesn’t attract grit and dirt like a wet lube, you can simply add a new application of dry lube to keep the drivetrain running sweetly. On review, we found that our chain remained rust-free after our 'garden hose test' that we used to replicate wet weather. A ride in the rain followed and the chain again showed no signs of rust or stiff links. We also liked that, unlike some wet lubes, Green Oil didn't attract too much dirt and grime that can really wear the drivetrain. So if the type of lube is unimportant for efficiency why is there so much choice? Alex Trimnell, Muc-Off’s CEO, has this advice: “Keeping your drivetrain clean and well-lubed is important for a smooth riding experience, but you need to make sure that you use the right lube for the conditions.”

Otherwise, even subjected to these harsh, slimy contexts, chains, cassettes, derailleurs and rings remain remarkably clean and to the tune of approximately 300 miles per application – 500-plus during temperate and relatively dry autumn months. John has been writing about bikes and cycling for over 30 years since discovering that people were mug enough to pay him for it rather than expecting him to do an honest day's work.Wet lubes are used in all weather conditions but really come to the fore when riding in autumn and winter as they are water resistant so won’t get washed off riding through puddles or in a rainstorm.

As well as its well-known multipurpose spray, WD40 does make a specialist bicycle chain lube, which is formulated for the job. Chain lube lowdown So, I have been adding drop wise to the top of the roller for a few years now, the thing that I discovered was that if I did a small drop on each roller and then after doing the full chain doing another drop, it seemed to aid penetration and staying power. With overnight set up and wiping down before riding. I might lose a little more on the rag but it seems to work for me. Squirt lube easily survived 30-odd miles of normal commuting in all weathers, at which point it faced about the sternest test possible: 40 miles in the salt, snow and rain finishing up on the muddy, puddle-strewn canal towpath. I wouldn't expect any lube to survive that and the chain showed some evidence of rust the next day after a hose down, but it wasn't noisy - there was still some lube in there, so it's pretty tenacious stuff. Some brands recommend leaving the lube in place for a specific period of time before wiping off the excess, so read the manufacturer's instructions to make sure that you're doing it right. What’s the difference between wax and oil lube? Mungecrundle: Having run out of dry lube, I used some Wurth motorcycle chain wax and have been using it ever since. Dries in a few minutes, keeps the chain clean and running smoothly. Only shortcoming is that as a spray lube you need to be careful that it doesn't get to where it isn't supposed to be.BehindTheBikesheds replied to StraelGuy: Only a thousand miles, christ what are you riding through dust, dirt, mud, rain with road salt for good measure and not wiping post ride or any cleaning at all? From a cost/benefit viewpoint, there's no point spending more on hi-tec unguents than you're saving on drivetrain wear.

The best part about cycling is that you need very little to get going. There are a number of must-have pieces of equipment such as a helmet, high visibility clothing and lights, but apart from this small group, you don’t need anything extra.

Muc-Off Dry Lube (120ml)

PRSboy: Squirt seems to be the holy grail of lubes, as long as you don't mind reapplying after a wet ride. I've been most impressed. Argus Tuft: Dissolve a rounded teaspoon of grated paraffin wax in 100ml of shellite (I don't know what it's called over there – Stoddard's Solvent?). Using pliers, carefully pull the nozzle out of a R&R lube bottle and refill using a small funnel. Close enough to free. A small amount of moly or bearing grease – less is more – makes it even better. There are hundreds upon hundreds of brands in bicycling. From budget to billionaire worthy, the range in prices can vary significantly. All of the chain lubes featured have been tested in the real world. In general this means that the reviewers have used the products across a range of conditions to assess their performance, taking into consideration the different demands placed on wet and dry lubes as well as wax. We take note of a range of factors from ease of use to longevity.

Oh and that was periodically degreasing and washing the chain completely and then relubing with car full synthetic oil. I wouldn't do it on a spendy chain but then I wouldn't use those spendy chains on a bike that gets taken out in all the shitty conditions the UK weather will throw at you.The most important thing for me is daily cleaning of the drivetrain with degreaser, thoroughly drying it to remove all moisture before reapplying more lube. Of course, this doesn’t mean buy the most expensive items, but it does mean to think about if the price tag has more to do with the bragging rights than the actual quality of the product. Every bike cupboard should have both a wet and dry lube. Dry lubes are for the driest conditions and cleanest chains. This is a very simple but very important question. You may have heard the old adage ‘all the gear and no idea’. This concept is very much applicable to new riders that want to make sure that they have everything they need before their first trip on the pedals.